1998
Lionel the Landcruiser
and Tap-Tap go Walkabout

Day 4
Uluru

No big driving today (nice to have a bit of a rest) but that didn't mean a rest for the humans. They were up as usual with the sun - which was a good job 'cos that was the only time we saw it all day! And with a pretty chilly wind it made for a wrap up warm day today. Lots of fun for all that and we are looking forward to getting on the road again tomorrow.

Well, the plan was to walk all over Uluru today, but when we paid to get into the park (which we should have done yesterday only didn't as we came in from the other end) we got the usual stuff on the park etc and this included a note asking - quite politely - not to climb Uluru as it upset the local aborigines. Now this didn't seem to stop anyone else and after we drove all round and took a couple of general photos we stopped at the car park by the climb and there were at least a couple of hundred people already on the way up. There were lots of warnings and plaques to 5 or so people who had died in the last 20 or so years, but it didn't seem that bad, just a feeling that maybe we should think about the locals feelings.

Fascinating erosion at Uluru.

As it was also very windy, we put off the decision by doing the walk all round the base. This is about 9 km and pretty flat, but interesting for all the bits you can see on the way. There are some caves with paintings, a couple of waterholes and lots of interesting holes in the rock. There are a number of bits roped off for secret men's or women's business, where you are not allowed to take photos, but the rest was well photographed - as you may imagine. By the time we got back to the car park it was still windy and after we had lunch we decided that the climb wasn't really that important so we went off to the cultural centre.

This is quite new - the Ananga (local aborigines) have only recently got custody of the site and surrounding area and are making a big thing out of keeping it available to everyone, but in keeping with their traditions. It is laid on a bit thick in places, but maybe we are just a bit cynical and we should be more appreciative of the effort. It is certainly well put together and there does seem to be a real commitment to teaching rangers - both aboriginal and white - about the history and nature so we should wait and see I suppose.

One thing we were a bit disappointed with was the lack of any geological information about either Uluru or Kata Tjuta. We ended up scouring the glossy picture books in the souvenir shop back at the resort before we found anything out. It was pretty much as Hild had worked out anyway that they are lumps of sedimentary rock pushed upwards and they have a hard crust protecting the centre from erosion, so that when there is a hole, it gets opened up and forms caves.

Karingana Lookout (Valley of the Winds).

One thing that came over quite strongly was the Ananga's feeling that climbing was bad so we felt vindicated for not climbing after all. But those humans still wanted exercise so we to go off back to Kata Tjuta and do the longer walk down the valley of the winds. Why we had to do this on a windy day is anyone's guess, but it turned out to be a really good idea 'cos it was a REAL walk. Rated as 'difficult' and estimated at 4 hours for 8 km, we did it in 2 (with Hild setting the pace), but worked up a real sweat and really enjoyed it. There were lots of up and down bits (with some that almost needed hands) and a couple great view-points which we hope come out as well on camera. All in all, worth the 50 km back on ourselves we had to drive.

Speaking of which, once on our way back, we realised that it might not have been such a good idea as we realised that the fuel tank was particularly low. Having had lots of scare stories about needing to bleed the fuel system if you run out of diesel, everyone was rather worried and Rob was driving very sedately at a steady 80 to try and eke out the diesel as much as possible. We made it back to the Mobil station at Yulara, but only just 'cos we put 70 litres into what we think is a 70 litre tank! Phew, after that we decided we needed a break so we ate at one of the restaurants here and sorted ourselves out for tomorrow.

We are trying to get to Alice Springs tomorrow, I say trying 'cos we want to go via Finke Gorge through a place called Boggy Hole which conjures up all kinds of images. I'm looking forward to it 'cos I haven't actually been in 4WD yet this trip and that is what I am here for after all. But we'll see.

As we won't get to Alice until a bit later, the plan is t stay somewhere solid and maybe we can get this e-mail sent before it gets any longer. And then again, if we are stuck in Boggy Hole you won't get it at all!

Hope to speak to you soon.........

Lionel